A Must Detour on the Biwaichi

If you are planning a cycling trip around Lake Biwa (Biwaichi) in a counter-clockwise direction, please do not avoid the segment off the Lake Road (Kogan Doro) on the east side of the lake between the Chomeiji River and the Daido River. Described on many maps as steep mountain roads, they are rolling waves of tarmac that give you stunning views of the water while reducing the intensity of a summer sun by enveloping you in a deciduous cool tunnel of green.

This indirect path begins by turning left as you cross the Chomeiji Bridge and head towards Chomeiji Temple, a few hundred meters down across from the port. The temple is a branch of the Tendai sect and is one of the thirty-three temples on the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage. If time allows, after 808 steps through dense thickets of bamboo you will be rewarded with a stunning view of Lake Biwa, but I digress, you are cycling today.

As you pedal north out of the village the lake comes into view with Oki Island (Okishima) floating in the distance and you can already feel that this alternate way feels different and much quieter than the humming of the cars on the Kogan Doro.

You stop to turn on your front and rear lights to ensure that you are seen and you rest assured that it’s a weekday which means far fewer cars. The ride is exhilarating because it is only you, the lake, the mountain side and no buildings to obstruct your view as you meander along the coast.

The dense forest is filled with evergreens and deciduous trees, low lying ferns and seasonal flora and the sound of cicadas (semi) buzzing is all you can hear. Although signs will tell you to beware of wild boars and monkeys in the area, I have yet to encounter one or the other.

You glide around the corners enjoying the gentle ups and downs with a smile that is hard to erase.

The last section brings you on a descent through the Kyukamura area curving around to Horikiri Port which provides a ferry to Okishima famous for funazushi, a fermented ancient Japanese type of sushi.

But you look over your shoulder as you come out of the shade of the forest onto the cycling path again knowing that your Biwaichi cycling trip is a tad more special now.